The Greek climbing area you’ve never heard about: a guide for rock-climbers to Ermionida

Nestled in the warm embrace of the Mediterranean, lies the charming peninsula of Ermionida - a place steeped in history and mythology. With Athens just a stone's throw away, Ermionida offers a perfect escape from the hustle and bustle of city life. 

The area is known for its stunning natural beauty, crystal-clear waters, and many secluded beaches. With 73 beaches, visitors can bask in the sun, swim in crystal-clear waters and explore hidden coves. Add a mild, greek climate on top of that and you may realize Ermionida is only one of Greece’s hundreds of ideal spots for summer holidays.

What's better in Ermionida, the sea or the rock? © Climb Ermionida

But, the peninsula has more to offer than just sun and sand. Visitors can immerse themselves in some of the most significant ancient sites in Greece, plan cultural activities, and indulge in visits to nearby islands like Hydra, Spetses, and Poros. The famous Sanctuary of Asklepios and the ancient theater of Epidaurus and Mycenae, are fascinating sites to explore and you can’t miss them, even if you’re a passionate climber looking for aesthetic walls and adrenaline.

Luckily, that's not all - Ermionida is also home of a newly born climbing development project, which aims to offer to Greek and international climbers a valid alternative from Kalymnos, Leonidio and all the most popular climbing destinations in Greece. 

If you haven't booked your tickets for a climbing holiday in Greece, we’ll make it happen in just a few minutes. Just keep reading!

Thermisia is one of the most scenic crags you'll find in Ermionida © Climb Ermionida

The climbing Big-Bang of Peloponnese

Once upon a time, back in the 2000’s, a climbing revolution occurred in a remote area of Greece, located in the Eastern part of Peloponnese. The British climber, Jim Titt, and the German Inge Zaczek found a golden pot while spending their holidays in Ermionida. 

Ermionida is located on the east of Peloponnese, south of Athens. The traditional taverns, the cafés, the paved streets, the beautiful houses and the crystal clear beaches around this area are some of the reasons which make this town an interesting summer destination of Peloponnese.

Once Jim and Inge realized how good  the quality of the rock was there, they immediately booked another flight to Greece. The result was more than 200 routes bolted on the area’s excellent limestone rocks, with stainless steel bolts. 

In recent years, the local climbing community Climb Ermionida (@climbermionida), carried out maintenance works on the various crags and replaced several anchors, with new high quality and certified material and revived the whole area into the new era for climbing activities.

From a chill holiday on easy routes to performance-oriented missions aiming for projects not yet freed... this area has them all © Climb Ermionida 

Ermionida’s climbing potential: an overview 

While traveling around the area, you will have the chance to admire olive and pine trees along with plenty of bays with turquoise waters. If you’ve ever worn a pair of climbing shoes, you will immediately notice orange and red walls popping out the ground at every turn. Just pay attention to the drive and guess how many crags have been developed so far. Here’s a hint: very few!

Despite the hard work Climbing Ermionida is putting into climbing development, the area’s potential is still to be defined. As of now, Ermionida offers 9 sport-climbing crags, with 300+ sport climbing routes (from 4a to 9a), plenty of trad climbing routes (more than 30!) and multi-pitch routes for the most adventurous climbers out there.

The crags of Ermionida offer guaranteed good climbing conditions and easy access. Plus, the crags are more organized and less crowded compared to other popular destinations, which will make your climbing more relaxed.

With plenty of routes for all types of climbers, Ermionida is the perfect destination for both beginners and experienced climbers. For those seeking a challenge, the hardest route in Peloponnese is still an open project, waiting for the First Ascent. Alternatively, you can choose among a handful of very hard routes, from 8b+ and above. On the other hand, if you're seeking relaxation, adventure, and a way to enjoy climbing, Ermionida offers dozens of 5-stars routes, starting from 4a. 

If you want to get a complete overview, we suggest you to download Ermionida’s climbing guidebook - you’ll find grades, topos, description and all the directions on how to get to the crags. In the next few weeks, we will be diving deeper into Ermionida’s climbing community and its best climbing areas.

So pack your climbing shoes, chalk and rope and get ready to explore the stunning island of Ermionida!

How is climbing developing tourism in Ermionida?

The Thermisia Crag is a good example of how most of the crags look like in Ermionida: good quality, safe bolting and a stunning panorama © Climb Ermionida 

In recent years, leisure tourism in Peloponnese has experienced a significant flow of visitors, attracting travelers from various parts of the world. The region's rich historical heritage, breathtaking landscapes, and vibrant culture have contributed to its popularity as a sought-after leisure destination. Destinations like Nafplio's charming atmosphere and historical architecture have lured visitors seeking a relaxing and culturally rich experience. The luxury resorts and idyllic beaches of Costa Navarino have provided a luxurious escape for travelers looking for a tranquil seaside retreat. If you’re not into fancy hotels with a sea view, keep reading! As you probably understood, some serious climbing and affordable, family-owned accommodations are around!

Archaeological sites such as Olympia, Mycenae, and Epidaurus have continued to captivate tourists, offering them a glimpse into the ancient wonders of Greece. These sites and others have drawn history enthusiasts who seek to immerse themselves in the region's past. That being said, Peloponnese's natural beauty has also played a crucial role in attracting leisure tourists. 

The region's picturesque gorges and the diverse landscapes, such as the Gorge of Neda, have offered a serene escape for nature lovers. Mountain ranges like Taygetus and Parnon have enticed outdoor enthusiasts looking for hiking and climbing opportunities. So why is Ermionida, a small municipality in the Argolis regional unit, playing an essential role in Peloponnese tourism?

An overview of Katafyki Crag: here you will mostly find steep physical routes on good holds. No worries though: it's plenty of easy routes! © Climb Ermionida

Climb Ermionida is a locally-driven climbing community that aims to revitalize and expand the climbing offerings in the region of Ermionida. Since its inception, the group has made significant strides in achieving this goal through revitalizing local crags and creating and free distributing a complimentary climbing guidebook, "Climbing in Ermionida.”

As a result of these efforts, Ermionida has witnessed an increase in the number of worldwide visitors seeking an alternative to established climbing destinations such as Kalymnos and Leonidio. Currently, Ermionida is emerging as a new and exciting hotspot for climbers.

Furthermore, Climb Ermionida is actively pursuing new development plans to enhance the region's climbing offerings. These plans include the establishment of a 10th crag that will feature 10 new routes and the further development of existing crags, such as Castle Thermisia, and the creation of new multi-pitch routes.

The community is committed to working with local stakeholders and partners to ensure that these plans align with the region's sustainable development objectives and promote responsible climbing practices. 

The group's efforts have not only contributed to the growth of the climbing community in Ermionida but also have had a positive impact on the local economy by attracting visitors and generating tourism revenue.

Thanks for reading! The article is not over and we'll be updating it during the upcoming weeks, working closely with the local community Climb Ermionida. This collaboration is part of Mapo Tapo's "Trust the Locals", a column designed in collaboration with local climbers and climbing developers worldwide. Together, we aim to inspire people to discover new climbing destinations through responsible tourism.