Rock Climbing in Cuba - Viñales and Playa Jibacoa

Cuba is a country with a singular history, a vibrant culture and unique nature. In this article, we explore rock climbing in Cuba, a hidden gem in the Caribbean that, with time and resources, could become one of the best sport climbing areas in the world. Christopher Columbus was the first Western person to see its beauty, and it continues to enchant climbers today.

Traveling to Cuba can feel like stepping back in time. Classic 1956 Chevrolets drive through the streets of Havana, passing old buildings with socialist slogans. In the countryside, farmers smoking cigars wave to you from horse-drawn carts.

Cuba's climbing, like its culture, is special. The island has hard limestone cliffs, offering challenges for all skill levels. The Valles de Viñales is a top spot, with over 800 climbing routes. These routes vary in shape, from smooth faces to jagged overhangs, making every climb an adventure. There is also talk of a new climbing hotspot: another Viñales, only bigger.

🗣 “Cuba is the most beautiful thing human eyes could ever behold.” - Christopher Columbus

Planning a vacation to Cuba in 2024 means considering some restrictions and setting up logistics beforehand. Getting to these amazing climbing spots means following local rules and supporting responsible tourism. Climbers can help the local community by making donations or bringing climbing gear and other hard-to-find items. This support helps keep the climbing areas in good shape and improves the experience for both climbers and locals.

Understanding how to handle these challenges is key for those eager to climb these routes. Chapter 2 is a complete guide covering everything from necessary preparations and understanding local customs to how your visit can benefit local communities.

You'll learn not only about climbing but also about traveling responsibly and positively impacting Cuba’s lively climbing community. Fighting through Don Cojete de la Mancha, 8a in Cueva Larga © David Munilla

Chapter 1: Sport-climbing In Cuba: Best Areas

Rock climbing in Cuba kicked off a long time ago in an intriguing way, starting with a legend about Spanish women climbers who attempted a daring ascent over 15 years ago. Their journey—scaling a wall using basic gear like pitons and hammers—marks one of the earliest known climbing attempts in Cuba. While their complete route remains uncertain, the legacy of their climb has inspired generations. Named in their honor, this route is still considered the best in the country and continues to captivate climbers with its history and challenge.

Today, climbing in Cuba is mostly about sport-climbing. In this chapter, we’ll be talking about the best climbing areas of Cuba:

• Viñales
• Mogote del Valle
• La Cueva Cabeza de la Vaca
• Playa Jibacoa
• Holguín and Gibara
• [EXTRA] Bouldering in Cuba

The best sport climbing areas in Cuba

Viñales

The Valles de Viñales is a national park and UNESCO world heritage site lying in the mountainous region of Pinar del Rio, about a 2.5 to 3 hour drive from Havana. Amidst the greenery and century-old tobacco farms you’ll find huge limestone ‘mogotes’ which today are home to 800+ high-quality limestone routes (and counting) up to 6 pitches long. The climbing has a similar feel to Thailand - think steep and pumpy flowstone - but is even more varied, boasting anything from jugs to pockets, tufas and stalactites.

The development of sport climbing in Viñales has played a crucial role in the history of Cuban climbing. It all began in 1998, when Cuban-American climber Armando Menocal returned for a trip to his homeland and was blown away by the sheer climbing potential of this limestone paradise. The following year, he coaxed a team of Colorado climbers including Skip Harper, Craig Luebben and George Bracksieck to travel to Cuba with the aim of beginning development here.

The American team were able to make contact with the nascent Cuban climbing community (at the time spelunkers who through sheer ingenuity had managed to set up a few top-rope crags near Havana without having any access to specialised gear) and involve them in the exploration of the island. While the first routes in Viñales were bolted by the Americans themselves, this collaboration initiated what was to become a fully-fledged gear donation program enabling Cuban climbers to take the lead in local development efforts.

The majority of the routes are concentrated in three main areas within the valley, all walking or cycling distance from the town where we recommend you stay.

Mogote del Valle

Mogote del Valle is a massive, jungle-topped limestone formation close to town and has been the focus of local development efforts. The area contains 70 percent of all the routes in the region, offering something for all tastes and styles: single to multi-pitch, technical face climbing to tufa hauling, with routes between 4 and 8b+.

La Cueva Cabeza de la Vaca

Also known as ‘La Cueva,’ this cave in the Mogote del Valle area serves as the local gym, offering seriously overhanging hard routes surrounded by stunning waterfalls and eerie stalactites. You’ll need to climb 6c confidently to enjoy this place, but if you can, it’s well worth a visit.

On hotter days, head to La Costanera, a spectacular north-facing limestone cathedral offering quality single and multi-pitch routes from the 5th to the 8th grade. The ‘Jagueyana’ crag here is a great option if you're climbing in the 6s and 7s, with a huge variety of climbs of these grades and arguably the best 6c in Cuba (Ana Banana).

Carlos Logroño climbing with some magical light in Cueva Larga © David Munilla

If you’re looking for a bit of fun, head to El Palenque, possibly the most indulgent climbing area in the world! Impressive rock formations, short approaches, tonnes of classic routes and a bar-turned-disco after dark in a cave by the parking lot make this a must-visit sector. If you get too pumped, just ice your forearms on some mojitos!

Thanks to the high-concentration of quality climbs, it’s possible to stay a few weeks (or even months!) in Viñales without running out of new routes to try. On rest days, you can go for a hike in the National Park, visit one of the tobacco plantations in the area, head to the beach at Cayo Jutias or Cayo Levisa, or just get a coffee in town and enjoy the slower pace of life.

Playa Jibacoa

If you’re visiting Cuba for the first time, it's worth spending a few days exploring the rest of the island and some of its lesser-known climbing spots.

Playa Jibacoa, a small fishing village in the Mayabeque Province of Cuba (about 40 minutes from Havana), should be your next stop. Here, unspoiled and tranquil beaches and the surrounding scenic countryside provide a plethora of opportunities for swimming, snorkeling, diving, hiking, or just relaxing in the sun.

On the beach at Jibacoa, you’ll find a medium-sized crag with 50 single-pitch limestone sport routes between 5 and 7c. The routes are typically 35m long and less steep than those at Viñales, making this the ideal location for a few days of more laid-back climbing. If you fancy a quick break, all you have to do is walk a few meters to the sea.

Holguín and Gibara

The Holguín province in Eastern Cuba is a must-visit destination for anyone looking for an adventure. Here, the rugged, mountainous landscape hides many limestone cliffs, making this region second to Viñales in terms of bolting potential.

You’ll find some good crags near the towns of Holguín and Gibara themselves, where a few hundred lines up to 8a have been bolted in gorgeous limestone outcrops by a growing community of local climbers. Most of the crags require a slightly longer walk-in than Viñales (up to an hour), but you’re guaranteed some quality routes and a real feeling of seclusion. If you’ve got time, the towns of Holguín and Gibara and nearby beaches are worth visiting - especially if you want to experience a more ‘authentic’ side to Cuba.

💡 Before heading to Holguín, we recommend getting in touch with the local community through cubaclimbing.com for up-to-date access information.

Bouldering in Cuba

Although most people come to Cuba to sport climb, the island also has some quality bouldering spots. For example, you’ll find an incredible limestone bouldering crag at the entrance of a cave system near the town of San Carlos in Western Cuba. This is the place to head if you’re looking for steep, physical climbing with safe sandy landings - like an outdoor gym, but better!

If you’re visiting eastern Cuba, it’s the Oasis crag in Santiago that you should go for. This coastal climbing area has the advantage not only of offering granite boulders - a rarity! - but also being just a few minutes’ walk from the beach. Contact the local community for more information.

Chapter 2: Things To Know Before Going On A Climbing Adventure In Cuba

Traveling to Cuba, especially for outdoor activities like climbing, comes with specific rules. In January 2012, Cuba tightened access to its natural areas like Viñales National Park. This meant that not just climbers, but all outdoor enthusiasts were restricted to certain trails that had been approved long ago. For example, US citizens and climbers who want to legally visit Cuba for these activities need to get a general license or fit into one of the 12 categories of authorized travel. These categories cover various reasons like humanitarian projects, support for the Cuban people, religious activities, and so on. You’ll find more details in Chapter 3.

💡 One way for US climbers and travelers to access Cuba is to provide support for the Cuban people and promote independent activity intended to strengthen civil society in Cuba.

Although the rules are strict, local enforcement can be lenient, and visitors often explore beyond the officially allowed areas. If you're planning to visit, the best time is from November to April when the weather is ideal for being outdoors. This chapter will help you navigate the legal aspects of traveling to Cuba and give you first-hand information to plan your climbing trip.

Is rock climbing illegal in Cuba?

In short: climbing is not a problem in most areas of Cuba. The exception is Viñales, where it is technically banned. However, don’t let this discourage you, as authorities often turn a blind eye to climbers, especially if they are foreigners. Trekking is popular in the area, so you can usually blend in easily.

To understand the situation better before you travel, check out this in-depth article by Cuba Climbing.

💡 The Cuba Climbing website is a goldmine of information for climbing in this tropical paradise. You’ll find up-to-date info on most of the crags, access information, instructions for where to send your gear donations, and a cheap downloadable e-book version of the Cuba climbing guide.

Climbing Restrictions in Cuba

Climbing in Cuba, especially in Viñales, faces unique challenges. While sports in the Olympics get strong support from the Cuban government, climbing doesn’t get the same attention. The government controls all sports and recreational activities and usually requires official permission for them. Climbing has never been officially approved.

Despite this, there are mixed messages. Sometimes, Cuban climbers are featured in state-run media and promotional materials, which seems contradictory since climbing isn’t officially supported. This shows an inconsistent approach by the authorities towards climbing.

The situation is particularly strict in Viñales, where climbing is technically not allowed, but it still happens regularly. The rules are enforced unevenly: foreign climbers often face fewer issues, while local climbers might be penalized or even detained for planning to climb with foreigners.

Local climbers rely on international donations for equipment since forming organizations and importing gear isn’t allowed. This support is crucial for keeping climbing alive in Cuba.

💡 In summary, while tourists can usually climb without much trouble, Cuban climbers face significant restrictions and risk. Climbing goes on despite these challenges, driven by the resilience and passion of the local climbing community.

Interact with the Local Climbing Community

The Cuban government has unfortunately restricted the growth of climbing in many ways. Local climbers are not allowed to form an organization or have a website. Lack of public funding means that all development depends on private donations. Imports of climbing gear are also restricted, so the Cuban climbing community is dependent on donations from visiting climbers.

Because of this, if you’re planning on climbing in Cuba, it’s best to pack some extra gear (in good condition) to leave behind. Alternatively, you can donate to the anchor and bolt fund at Cubaclimbing.com. For guidelines on what gear to donate and how, click here.

Carlos Logroño climbing Capitain Hook, 7b in Cuba Libre Crag, Viñales © David Munilla

Best Time to Travel to Cuba

The best season is December through to March, when you get the coolest temperatures and driest conditions. Climbing-wise, October, November, and April also provide good climbing conditions.

Where to Stay? How to Choose Accommodation in Cuba

To experience the most authentic side of Cuba, it’s best to stay in ‘casas particulares’. These are licensed rooms to rent in a local’s house, often with breakfast included in the price. There are hundreds of casas particulares to choose from in both Havana and Viñales, so you can book online or check a few out when you arrive. Ask the locals for recommendations!

If you’re hungry, visit one of the many Paladares - family-run restaurants in local houses where you’ll be served traditional Cuban food in a warm and friendly atmosphere. In Havana, many have been extended to resemble restaurants, but you’ll still find a good range of traditional dishes to try.

Chapter 3: How To Travel To Cuba: Visa Requirements, Access Restrictions and Bans

Despite the complexities of U.S. regulations, Cuba welcomes American tourists with fewer restrictions. For both US and non-US tourists, travel within Cuba is generally unrestricted for visitors, though there are local limitations affecting where tourists can stay and interact with Cubans.

How To Travel To Cuba For US Travelers

First, you need to know that traveling to Cuba is only allowed if you meet at least one of the following:

1. Qualifying Categories: U.S. citizens must qualify for a "general license" based on one of the 12 approved categories to travel to Cuba.
2. Travel Restrictions: Travel to Cuba must be arranged by a U.S.-based tour company, and travelers must be accompanied by a guide to engage in meaningful exchanges with Cuban people.
3. Activities Focus: While in Cuba, your activities must focus on full-time engagement outlined in the chosen travel category; purely touristic activities like sunbathing on beaches are not allowed.
4. Legal Requirements: U.S. citizens must follow the 12 approved travel categories or get a specific license from the U.S. Department of the Treasury to travel to, from, or within Cuba.

There are two main ways to legally travel to Cuba from the U.S.:

1. Direct Travel from the U.S.: To fly directly to Cuba from the U.S., you must fit into one of 12 authorized categories, such as journalism, family visits, or educational activities. However, recent changes have made these options stricter. The Trump administration removed the "people-to-people" travel category on November 9, 2017, which had allowed for individual and group educational tours. Now, Americans must qualify under more specific reasons like "Support for the Cuban People," which involves activities that promote independence from Cuban authorities.
2. Travel via a Third Country: Another way is traveling to Cuba through another country, such as Canada or Mexico. This route is less likely to be monitored by U.S. authorities, and travelers rarely face penalties. If questioned upon return to the U.S., travelers can claim they qualified under one of the 12 categories. If they choose not to disclose details, the U.S. government must prove the travel was not covered under these categories.

How To Travel To Cuba For Non-US Travelers

For non-US citizens planning to visit Cuba, understanding the specific visa requirements and entry regulations is essential to ensure a smooth journey. Here’s what you need to know:

1. Direct Flights from Home Country: Travelers flying directly from their home country to Cuba generally face no restrictions on their activities once in Cuba. The primary requirements are a standard tourist card/visa and a valid passport.
2. Traveling on a US-Operated Airline: For those traveling to Cuba on a US-operated airline or passing through a US airport, it's necessary to declare a legal travel category, such as "Support for the Cuban People." Travelers must also obtain a Cuban Tourist Card, which can be purchased online or at the airport before departure.
3. Visa Requirements for Specific Nationalities: Visa requirements vary by nationality. Most Europeans and Americans need a Cuban tourist visa, while travelers from countries like Russia, Serbia, and Malaysia might not need a visa or tourist card for certain periods.
4. Insurance Requirement: All visitors must have travel insurance that covers medical expenses, approved by foreign companies, as US policies are not accepted. Insurance can also be bought upon arrival in Cuba.
5. Entry Documents and Forms: When traveling, you must fill out the D’Viajeros form for each passenger. Additionally, parents traveling with children should be prepared to show proof of parental rights or guardianship.

Chapter 4: Conclusions

Rock climbing in Cuba, especially in places like Viñales, is as challenging as it is rewarding. Despite the government not officially supporting climbing, the local climbing community is passionate and resilient. They rely on international donations for their equipment but continue to push the boundaries of the sport in their country.

For foreign climbers, Cuba offers beautiful limestone cliffs and a variety of climbing routes that are both challenging and rewarding. However, climbers must navigate Cuba’s complex rules carefully. The government sometimes promotes climbing in the media while also placing restrictions on it, particularly affecting local climbers.

Looking ahead, there may be more support and recognition for climbing from the Cuban government. For now, both local and international climbers continue to explore and appreciate the unique climbing opportunities in Cuba, adding to the island’s rich outdoor sports scene.

We hope you enjoyed this article and that it has inspired you to visit some of Cuba’s incredible crags. You can find more articles like this on different off-the-beaten-track destinations around the world  in the Climbing Travel Guide.

A huge thanks to Anibal Fernandez for the information. Thanks also to Nate Murphy, Weronika Biernacka and David Munilla for the photos.

You can find Nate on his instagram and youtube channel, and Weronika on instagram. You can find David Munilla's website here.

Cover picture © David Munilla