Italy

The place

Camaiore is a gem hidden in the Tuscan hills, just below the limestone covered peaks nearby. Climb overlooking a small medieval village, a lush valley and majestic limestone cliffs, with the Apuan Alps behind you and the beautiful Mediterranean sea in front of you. Locacted only a 20 minute drive from Pisa and its reclining tower, 10 minutes from the beaches of Versilia, 30 minutes from the famous Cinque Terre and 40 minutes from the Chianti wineries, climbing in Camaiore is a truly unique experience. You will find thousands of routes, ranging from beautiful long and athletic tufas to scenic multi-pitches overlooking the sea. You can even check out the crazy crimps on the 9a+ Naturalmente freed by Adam Ondra in 2017, which he described as “one of the best routes I can imagine”, or challenge yourself on a big-wall adventure on the 700m-tall Pizzo d’Uccello. And the best part is that you will most probably enjoy this paradise on your own, away from the crowds.
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The crags

After landing at Pisa airport, head to Camaiore village. If you want some easy mileage for your first climbing day, go to the beautiful crag of Sant’Anna di Stazzena, secluded among the hills and offering a stunning sea view. Here you can find lots of easy routes, from 3+ to some in the 6b-6c range. You can reach the crag by foot (20 minutes) from Camaiore.
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If you feel like starting with a bang instead, then hike 40 minutes to the beautiful natural area of Procinto, with its majestic tower. This areas is roughly 1000m a.s.l. and offers some good climbing temperatures even in summer. You must try the beautiful multi-pitch routes going up the tower, with grades starting from VI. The most classic one is the Dolfi/Melucci route, opened back in 1955, and now completely re-bolted in sport-style (4 pitches). The best way to discover the tower is to go with a local mountain guide: you may even learn a couple of new knots and anchors on some of the more old-school routes! If you don’t feel like a multi-pitch, you can reach the top of the tower by climbing up Italy’s oldest via ferrata or explore the single-pitches in the crags nearby. You definitely should stop at the cozy hut Forte dei Marmi for a snack/lunch after climbing; you won’t regret it!

For strong climbers, of course, Camaiore's crown jewel is the San Rocchino crag. Here routes range from 7a (5.12a) to 9a+ (5.15a). The wall is heavily overhanging, starting from 30°, and the harder lines also have small crimps, requiring interesting pinches and shoulder movements. Needless to say, the climbing is gorgeous and unforgiving: Adam Ondra had to come back twice to close the 9a+ Naturalmente.

‍Yet another unmissable area is the Candalla crags (divided into Candella Alta and Candalla Bassa), which offer over 100 routes amidst incredible scenery. The key jaw-dropping features of Candalla are the steep, long, black-and-white-tufa infused limestone walls. Routes range from 5+ (5.10b) to 8c (5.13d), but are mainly in the 7th (5.12+) range. We recommend Alaigro hombre (6c), the technical Và lentino (7a+), and the intense and continuous dihedral of La ribadita (7b). Hiking there is also amazingly beautiful. The trail begins at an ancient water mill, fed by a stunning and rugged mountain river where people fill giant water jugs for their homes. Right next to the mill is a neat little waterfall lapping into a pool, where locals go on hot summer days - the rope swing is testimony to that.

If you like the style, then head to the overhanging tufas in Cannelot. Strength, good technique, and endurance are all needed for these 20-25mt lines, mostly in the 7b (5.12c) to 8a (5.13b) range. Roberto Vigiani is the main bolter of these crags and the host of the Ostello Camaiore B&B (together with his wife, Grazia). Stay there for first-hand advice on how to get ready for your next days’ projects and to fully enjoy the natural, rustic vibe of Camaiore.

Since Camaiore has seen continuous route-development, no guidebooks offer a truly comprehensive overview, and we recommend joining one of the pro-rock alpine guides. They all climb above 8th (5.13) grade and used to compete: it is your chance to learn some tricks from the pros and bridge to the next level. Why do that in the gym if you can train on some breathtaking tufas with a sea-view?

Last but not least, if you fancy some alpine climbing then a trip to the Apuan Alps is not complete without the climb of Pizzo d’Uccello, known as the Matterhorn of the Apuan Alps. Its sheer 700m north face makes it an impressive big-wall climb in alpine style. There are multiple routes climbing up the 1781m summit, mostly trad, and it is typically possible to do the climb in one day, even if you have to be always ready for a last-minute bivouac. The beauty, grace and the strict alpine aura of the peak makes it one of the greatest goals for all local climbers.

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Camaiore

Where:

Beauty:

Routes:

640

Bolts:

Around

Crowd:

Season:

Mar - Nov

Access:

The place

The crags

The local community

Pro Rock mountain guides

Evasion Koh Tao

Roberto

Carlo

Cristiano

Fabio

Franco

Pasquale

Crags recommended by our Ambassador

Roberto Vigiani

Roberto Vigiani is a one of the most prolific Italian climbers and bolters. He is one of the key developers of climbing in Camaiore and one of the most competent route-setters in Italy. He made numerous important first ascents both in sport and trad multi-pitches around the world.

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