As a reddish light flickers and dances with the curves of a cavernous wall rising steeply beside you, the trance-like sound of campfire crackling echoes and melts into the air. Through plumes of smoke, an unbearably infinite sky glitters with starlight above. The faux stillness of desert sand is spread out before you—like waves rolling across the vastness in slow motion. Everything is displayed in a bluish glow, cast by an incomplete moon overhead. Your eyes drift downward to examine your taped and mended hands, bitten by the efforts of the day, which tell a story: a fantastical journey ascending islands of stone floating in a sea of burnt sand. The only paths of admittance to these monolithic summits are cracks like lightning bolts, reaching high into the desert canopy. Your skin is still warm from the hours of sun, and it feels as though you’ve been transported across time to a land that awes the imagination.
Amman is the starting point of adventure in Jordan. From here, you can catch public buses to just about anywhere you need to go. Renting a car and driving yourself is doable, but not necessary. Although the traffic environment is quite mellow compared to other parts of the Middle East, the practices and ethics are still a bit on the aggressive side relative to the West.