Jordan

The place

As a reddish light flickers and dances with the curves of a cavernous wall rising steeply beside you, the trance-like sound of campfire crackling echoes and melts into the air. Through plumes of smoke, an unbearably infinite sky glitters with starlight above. The faux stillness of desert sand is spread out before you—like waves rolling across the vastness in slow motion. Everything is displayed in a bluish glow, cast by an incomplete moon overhead. Your eyes drift downward to examine your taped and mended hands, bitten by the efforts of the day, which tell a story: a fantastical journey ascending islands of stone floating in a sea of burnt sand. The only paths of admittance to these monolithic summits are cracks like lightning bolts, reaching high into the desert canopy. Your skin is still warm from the hours of sun, and it feels as though you’ve been transported across time to a land that awes the imagination.

A voice floats over the coals of the fire, hearty and eloquent, interrupting the mindful reverie: “It used to be, Bedouins do not ask your name for three days. When you arrive, you are guest, and you are welcome. But, after three days, you are more than guest: you are home.” A slender man, draped in a thick, dark-colored robe meant to bear the colder nights of the desert, leans forward from his cross-legged position to lift an old charred kettle from the edge of the fire. If you hold out your short glass cup, he will graciously pour you a third, or perhaps fourth round of sugary red tea.

For most of us, climbing often becomes more than the act itself. Once one is lured in, whether by the challenge, the excitement, or even the fear, it doesn't take long to realize that the real capture of rock climbing is something much deeper. Wherever you venture in the world, if you seek the rock, you will find a unique path that weaves its way through cultures, languages, and communities long before you step onto the first pitch in a new land.

Relatively few have ventured to explore rock climbing in a part of the world that is often too easily written off as a place to be avoided: The Middle East, and in particular, the area known as the Levant. Despite the reputation of the region, what you’ll find in Jordan is a rich history, vibrant culture, and a safe, welcoming atmosphere from the very first time you hear “ahlan-wa-sahlan.”

Climbing in Jordan has a deep history. The Bedouin tribes of the desert have been scaling the sandstone peaks of Wadi Rum in search of food and water for thousands of years. Until the mid-1980s, they were the only ones who knew safe passage through the labyrinthine canyons and vast maze of summits. Around that time, a group of English climbers including Tony Howard, who published the only guidebook to the area later that decade, became enamored with Rum and developed hundreds of modern traditional routes to compliment the many surprisingly adventurous “Bedouin routes.”

While a handful of classic, quality climbing routes are easily accessible from Rum Village, your journey up the sandstone monoliths of this desert is nearly impossible without support from the local Bedouins. You’ll need a place to stay, and a ride (typically a four-wheel-drive truck, but a camels are also an option if there’s no rush) to access any of the climbing beyond earshot of the village. The Bedouins are more than happy to provide anything you need, with accommodations ranging from extra floor space in town to peaceful desert camps with tents, food, and water supplied.

More recently, as the popularity of bolted sport climbing has bloomed around the world, there's been some development of routes on shorter limestone cliffs near Amman and the border with Palestine by both local and western climbers. Local interest in climbing and outdoor adventure has spiked in the last decade, and there’s now a full-scale modern climbing gym located on the southwest side of Amman where locals, travelers, and expats alike congregate. It’s a great place to meet the Amman community, gather beta, and find partners for Wadi Rum and beyond.

No matter where in the world you are, climbing is a focal point for people from an endless number of cultures, languages, and backgrounds to share powerful experiences together that foster self-growth and create lifetime bonds. However, as a country where roughly one-third of the population is refugees, Jordan is indeed a unique place when it comes to the importance of creating opportunity for shared powerful experiences in the outdoors. The seed has already been planted, it just needs the nutrients to grow. Planning a climbing trip to Jordan is a great way to support and become a part of this budding community.

The crags

Amman is the starting point of adventure in Jordan. From here, you can catch public buses to just about anywhere you need to go. Renting a car and driving yourself is doable, but not necessary. Although the traffic environment is quite mellow compared to other parts of the Middle East, the practices and ethics are still a bit on the aggressive side relative to the West.
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If you’re here for desert cracks, then you’ll be heading southwest about 4 hours from Amman to the village of Wadi Rum in the Aqaba governorate. You can add stops at the Dead Sea and the magnificent ruins of Petra along the way (recommended if you have time). Once in Rum village, you’ll connect with some locals. There are many Bedouin accommodations available, and there are a handful of specific camps that typically house climbers. The Sabbah family has a long history with climbing in Rum, one of the eldest Sabbahs having been an early guide for Tony Howard’s explorations in the 80s. A famous Bedouin route on Jebel Rum is named after him. Two of his sons, M’sallam and Sulieman run beautiful, rustic desert camps and also offer up spare rooms for climbers in their compounds in the village. They’re both well versed in the location and character of routes, and will be happy to transport you wherever you need to go.

After getting settled in the village, there is quite a bit of quality adventure to be had within walking distance. The typical warm-up day (or two) is spent on the East Face Towers of Jebel Rum. This area houses a selection of shorter, less committing routes that generally have bolted anchor and rappel stations. Goldfinger (5.10-/6a+) is a mellow 3-pitch line to the summit of the most prominent central tower with an excellent splitter crack on the second pitch. The rappels take you down through an incredible hand crack corner that looks as though it’s been transported straight from Indian Creek. It’s worth pulling the rope and leading this bonus pitch. After that, head next door to the wildly classic Inferno (5.10/6b) for another 3 pitches of quality rock. There are a handful of other great moderate routes in this area, including Flight of Fancy (5.10/6b) and Black Magic (5.10-/6a+). Be mindful of getting lured into routes like Mumkin (5.8/5+) simply because of the grade. The easiest routes in Rum tend to be a bit looser and sandier!

Across the valley to the east from Jebel Rum is a series of peaks divided by labyrinthine canyons, and here under Jebel Um Ishrin you’ll find one of the best routes in Rum: The Beauty (4+ pitches, 150m, 5.10/6b). Once you see the first pitch, you’ll understand how it got its name. A meandering approach through the melting candle wax walls of Rakabat Canyon is half the adventure.

As you become familiar with the quality and style of the sandstone, rack up for a more adventurous outing on one of Jebel Rum’s longer routes. The Pillar of Wisdom (9 pitches, 330m, 5.9+/6a+) is a classic not to be missed. However, beware the mind-bending maze that awaits you on the descent. Many parties get lost and end up enduring an unplanned cold night out waiting for the light to return. Consult a guide who knows the way, and draw yourself a map (see photo above). Lionheart (8 pitches, 300m, 5.10+/6c) is another longer route nearby with great sustained climbing and without the mandatory walk-off.

As you venture deeper into the desert you will undoubtedly find yourself in Barrah Canyon, where it’s worth setting up camp for a couple of days. The rolling dunes nestled between waves of vertical rock, harboring a small oasis of vegetation and lonely goat herders, offer a serene reprieve from the restless roosters and modest hustle of Rum village. Directly above one of the most obvious campsites is Merlin’s Wand, also known as the Supercrack of Rum (5 pitches, 120m, 5.10/6b). Although this line follows a straight-as-an-arrow crack system, a majority of the route is climbed on incredible face holds adjacent to the crack. The quality and popularity of this route inspired a recent anchor improvement project, and all stations now sport stainless steel glue-in bolts. Just a hundred meters to the right is another stellar route with a bit more of an adventurous feel, The Star of Abu-Judaidah (7 pitches, 180m, 5.10+/6c).

If you’re looking for harder lines, there are now two impressive routes that tackle the entirety of Jebel Rum’s East Face and clock in around the 8a mark. These are Rock Empire (14 pitches, 500m, 5.13b/8a) and Arnaud Petit’s newest addition, the fully bolted Heart Route (12 pitches, 480m, 5.13a/7c+). The original hard bolted line by Arnaud dwells on the Southeast Face of nearby Jebel Nassrani, called La Guerre Sainte (also known as Jihad, or The Holy War, 12 pitches, 400m, 5.12c/7b+).

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Where:

Jordan

Beauty:

Routes:

1000+

Bolts:

Around

Crowd:

Season:

November-April

Access:

The place

The crags

The local community

Evasion Koh Tao

Ali

Evasion Koh Tao

Sulieman

M'sallam

Crags recommended by our Ambassador

Xander Bianchi

Ready to prepare your backpack?