As a reddish light flickers and dances with the curves of a cavernous wall rising steeply beside you, the trance-like sound of campfire crackling echoes and melts into the air. Through plumes of smoke, an unbearably infinite sky glitters with starlight above. The faux stillness of desert sand is spread out before you—like waves rolling across the vastness in slow motion. Everything is displayed in a bluish glow, cast by an incomplete moon overhead. Your eyes drift downward to examine your taped and mended hands, bitten by the efforts of the day, which tell a story: a fantastical journey ascending islands of stone floating in a sea of burnt sand. The only paths of admittance to these monolithic summits are cracks like lightning bolts, reaching high into the desert canopy. Your skin is still warm from the hours of sun, and it feels as though you’ve been transported across time to a land that awes the imagination.
Amman is the starting point of adventure in Jordan. From here, you can catch public buses to just about anywhere you need to go. Renting a car and driving yourself is doable, but not necessary. Although the traffic environment is quite mellow compared to other parts of the Middle East, the practices and ethics are still a bit on the aggressive side relative to the West.
The climbing community in Jordan is relatively small compared to the amount of climbing in the country, but what it lacks in quantity it more than makes up for in quality. Be prepared to be welcomed as if you belong here. It’s easy to meet the local Amman crew by simply making a trip to the climbing gym on the southwest side of the city. (Note: Soon, there will also be a bouldering gym open right downtown in the vibrant Weibdeh area!) From there, you’re sure to make friends that will be happy to show you the local crags or team up for an adventure to Wadi Rum. There are a handful of guiding options if you’d like to have a local expert with you—it certainly adds a ton of value in terms of cultural knowledge, navigation, and route beta.
Ali Hussein
Ali Hussein is a native Jordanian with Palestinian heritage, and is one of the few up-and-coming mountain guides in the country. He was recently hand-picked to take part in a multi-year program, funded by the new Adventure Tourism branch of the Jordan Tourism Board, that is aiming to train and certify local mountaineering guides through the French ENSA curriculum. Besides the fundamentals of rock climbing instruction, navigation, and multi-pitch guiding technique, the program covers many companion rescue techniques as well. Ali has had a passion for climbing since his first day on the rock, and it’s immediately apparent when you meet him. In addition to bolting some new routes in the Kerak area, he’s recently been involved with a local grassroots effort to re-bolt some of the limestone crags that have fallen into disrepair, or have otherwise been vandalized. Ask about the Rebolting Jordan project when you’re here, and maybe donate some of your own time and effort to the cause
Evasion Koh Tao runs a small shop with a bouldering wall and offers rock climbing as well as kite surfing and a few other sports. They primarily guide at Golden View, an area of over 30 routes developed by The Block, a branch of Evasion Koh Tao Outdoor Sports Agency. Florian Frangioni is one of the partners of The Block and can always be found bolting new routes and providing maintenance for the Golden View area.
M'sallam and Sulieman
In Wadi Rum, there are many options for Bedouin guides. However, we recommend you experience the desert with one of the charming and spirited Sabbah brothers. M’sallam and Sulieman have been climbing the domed summits of Rum since they were little boys, usually alongside their adventurous father on hunting missions for ibex. You can stay in one of their humble concrete compounds in the village, or experience the serenity of the open desert in one of their camps tucked away against the red stone monoliths. Sulieman is never in short supply of smiles, laughs, or sugary mint tea, and M’sallam can entertain you with campfire stories for hours in a handful of different languages. Both have 4-wheel drive vehicles to transport you to the climbs and hikes, and both could navigate the area blindfolded. An experience in Wadi Rum isn’t complete without being fully immersed in the culture, so we recommend you stay with some locals, learn some of the language, and make some new friends!
Evasion Koh Tao runs a small shop with a bouldering wall and offers rock climbing as well as kite surfing and a few other sports. They primarily guide at Golden View, an area of over 30 routes developed by The Block, a branch of Evasion Koh Tao Outdoor Sports Agency. Florian Frangioni is one of the partners of The Block and can always be found bolting new routes and providing maintenance for the Golden View area.